As free as a bird in Hutovo Blato

16/07/2009

Divers can explore the fragments of two Illyrian ships, as well as ancient amphoras deep underwater.

Text and photos by Ema Kovac for Southeast European Times in Sarajevo -- 16/07/09

The tranquil landscape of Hutovo Blato.

About 30km outside of Mostar, and roughly 5km outside of Capljina, there is a quaint spot tucked away in the countryside -- the nature and bird reserve of Hutovo Blato.

Hutovo Blato spans about 7,411 hectares, most of which is marshland created by the underground aquifer system of the Krupa River. It is located in one of the major migration pathways from northern and central Europe to Asia and Africa.

"Hutovo Blato offers these birds, in addition to both non-biotic (climate, geographical position, water, soil, etc.) and biotic conditions (vegetation, micro and macro fauna, etc.), an abundance of food, quiet and peace for rest, which is why this area, since ancient times, was recognised as an important habitat of swamp birds," said the Hutovo Blato website.

During migration season, tens of thousands of birds fill the Deransko Lake, and the sub-Mediterranean wetlands surrounding it. Some also make the swamp their home year-round, such as the pygmy cormorant, grey heron, purple heron, night heron and mallard, as well as others.

Hutovo Blato's marshland was created by the underground aquifer system of the Krupa River.

Bird enthusiasts can catch a closer glimpse by taking a guided boat tour with an English-speaking biologist, organised by Motel Karaotok, the local motel.

Hutovo Blato is not only for the birds -- the park is home to more than 600 flora species and 22 species of fish -- eel and carp being the most common.

The non-poisonous snake Elaphe quatuorlineata, or four-lined rat snake, can also be found slithering in the marshland. The snake feeds on fish and frogs.

But there are more than fish, snakes and eels deep underwater -- the remnants of two old Illyrian ships, believed to have sunk 2,200 years ago, were discovered in nearby Deslio. Fragments of the ships, as well as amphoras and other artifacts, can be found in the mud and clay at the bottom of the lake.

A popular theory among archeologists is that the ships were used for trade, as Hutovo Blato was purportedly a high-traffic trading port between the Illyrians and the Romans.

Deer, wolves, foxes, and wild boars and horses roam in the surrounding woods.

The stillness of Hutovo Blato makes it a tranquil getaway. The air is fresh, the water is clear, and the white lilies and karst hills in the distance are breathtaking.