Serbia's Holy Mountain

08/07/2009

Frushka Gora's 16 medieval monasteries in a national park setting provide a religious and relaxing experience.

By Georgi Mitev-Shantek for Southeast European Times in Belgrade -- 08/07/09 Photos by Nikola Barbutov

The Krushedol Monastery was founded in 1509 by Serbian overlord Djordje Brankovic.

Just an hour's drive northwest of Belgrade, there is a spot to rejuvenate the mind and body. Enter Frushka Gora, a mountain in the northern province of Vojvodina, which offers the beauty of a national park and the spirituality of 16 medieval monasteries.

"God created it while resting and thinking of natural beauty," Serbian poet Jovan Jovanovic Zmaj said in 1860.

Getting there is easy, even for first-time foreign visitors. For those who are new to Serbian culture and architecture, the easiest route is to book a full-day visit with a guide.

Others can quickly get there by car via the Belgrade-Novi Sad Highway.

However, a much more adventurous route -- and according to many, the "real thing" -- is on the regional road through Indjia. The scenery of settlements is marvelous. Until World War I, the settlements were part of the Austria-Hungarian Empire and have Central European attributes.

Velika Remeta is a monastery with newer, vivid frescos.

En route, visit Sremski Karlovci, a key Serbian literary and cultural centre. The Holy Alliance concluded a peace treaty there with the Ottoman Empire in 1699. Amid Karlovci's rich history, try a bottle of the local red wine bermet, which goes well with homemade kugelhopf cookies.

Once in Frushka Gora, choosing which monasteries to visit may be challenging. Built between the 12th and 16th centuries, they vary in style and size. The big and rich Krushedol, and the small, but quite lively Velika Remeta are good choices.

Krushedol's splendour is evident from the first tower at the entrance of the monastery estate, which was founded in 1509 by Serbian overlord Djordje Brankovic. Many Serbian noblemen and patriarchs -- including King Milan Obrenovic (1872-1889) -- are buried there.

Visitors are drawn to Krushedol's architecture, but also its Orthodox frescos and icons with a mix of spiritual and artistic wonder. "[They] find it very interesting to see how … Biblical pictures are presented in Orthodox art," tour guide Stevo Jelic told Southeast European Times.

By contrast, Velika Remeta is a smaller monastery, with newer frescos. It has the highest bell tower (38.6 metres) in northern Serbia, a baroque masterpiece by German stonemasons. The monastery also offers a glimpse of how nuns live today.

The national park's forests and lakes are rejuvenating. A thermal spa treatment in Vrdnik will add to the experience, as will visiting one of the warm natural mineral pools.

Sit down for a tasty meal at one of Frushka Gora's many restaurants. The Madarik ethno house offers unique local dishes, prepared as they would have been centuries ago.

Tourists can leave Frushka Gora with a both a full heart and a full belly.