Explore Kosovo's alluring Rugova Valley

29/06/2009

All you need in Rugova Valley are some good friends and an adventurous spirit.

Photos and text by Besa Beqiri for Southeast European Times in Pristina -- 29/06/09

A waterfall gushes in the majestic Rugova Valley.

The crowded streets of Pristina can be hot and stuffy in the summer sun. Some friends and I wanted to take a break from the busy city, so we packed up the car and headed to the beautiful Rugova Valley.

Rugova Valley is a remote destination in the heart of Dukagjini, and is known for its magnificent Bjeshket e Nemuna, or Cursed Mountains.

We reached the town of Peja (Pec) around noon, and drove past the Patriarchate, which is made up of a series of chapels guarded by KFOR.

The site is home to a collection of beautiful frescos, but in order to see them, you have to make an appointment and go through security.

We move forward, leaving the walls of the Patriarchate behind, down a narrow street through a thick forest, deeper into the Valley.

The view becomes muddled, like a combination of different centuries in one place: water falling through the mountain; young people rock climbing; a bus full of people speaking Serbian; two small tents selling food and drinks; several people laying by the Bistrica River, others having picnics or playing on the river shore.

Although we are intrigued by all this, we can't stay long. We want to continue up the mountain.

Rugova Valley is known for its Bjeshket e Nemuna, or Cursed Mountains.

About 900m above the river bank, we come to a resort that includes a restaurant and bungalows. It's called Rugova Camp and was built in 2000. The Camp has a menu of homemade cheese, yoghurt, flija, salads, meats and fresh trout, which is caught locally.

"Trout is the only fish that survives in cold waters," said manager Haxhi Berisha, 30.

"We have a lot of foreigners coming here from KFOR, EULEX and others … they like our food," said Berisha.

The restaurant can accommodate approximately 700 people.

With full bellies, we leave Rugova Camp and journey to Drini I Bardhe (The White Drim), which flows through the village of Radavc.

There is small eatery and cafe bar called Kryedrini at the end of the road, which is only open during the summer months, and serves fresh water from a nearby waterfall.

The waterfall is only a few meters down a narrow road from the restaurant. The rocky, wild mountains and the waters that run through them make the view breathtaking. The water is so clear that you can see the stones at the bottom of the pool.

Twilight is creeping in, so we decide to head home. As we settle in for the drive back to the bustling city, we tune into a talk show on Radio Dukagjini.