Montenegro: a cultural mecca?

21/09/2009

Organisers of a Kotor festival set their sights high, while Podgorica locals hope a new venue for culture vultures will help transform the capital's image.

Text and photos by Marina Roganovic for Southeast European Times in Podgorica -- 21/09/09

Ibrica Jusic performs at Skaline. [Marina Roganovic]

Montenegro has an enviable reputation as a place to swim, eat, and enjoy yourself. In terms of its culture, though, the Balkan country has been undergoing something of an identity crisis. Some worry that its traditional ambience is being overrun, while others want it to become even more hip and avant garde.

Organisers of the Kotor Art International Festival (KAIF) make no secret of their intentions. They see KAIF -- which acts as an umbrella for a host of smaller events -- as nothing less than a mighty fortress in the battle to protect local culture in the face of unchecked development. They vow to guard Kotor's heritage and establish "a new cultural centre of the Mediterranean".

"Our festival will be an important factor in the battle for the preservation and revitalisation of historical landmarks, the reconstruction of walls, churches and palaces," Paolo Magelli and Janko Ljumovic write in the KAIF promotional brochure. "Having fallen behind, this town can learn from the fatal mistakes that destroyed similar and culturally close cities."

Tourism -- and perhaps especially the influx of affluent visitors seeking a high-end resort experience -- has pumped up the Montenegro economy, but at a price. Coastal towns, Magelli and Ljumovic say, are at risk of losing their sense of community and becoming little more than playgrounds for "the beautiful people".

KAIF hopes to counter this trend by establishing Kotor as a cultural mecca in the region. The organisers have turned to Montenegro's Culture Ministry for the funding required to make the festival a "must-attend" event in the culturally rich Mediterranean basin, which has a highly-competitive tourism industry.

The annual Kotor Carnival is one of the few cultural festivals not covered under the KAIF umbrella.[Marina Roganovic]

In keeping with the overall KAIF philosophy, the events on offer emphasize folklore and art rather than popular culture. Yet, not everything about KAIF adheres to the traditional. Some are conspicuously aimed at a younger crowd.

The Refresh Festival, featuring techno and hip-hop music, is one example. This summer, it seemed as though half of Montenegro's entire population crammed into the Maximus discotheque to party with world-renowned French deejay Bob Sinclair.

"This year's Refresh had a great atmosphere, great DJs and great visitors," said Marija Vujovic, the festival's media manager. Vujovic explains that Refresh is for "clubbers who want to enjoy the beauties of the Boka Bay, be exposed to the culture, traditions and customs of Kotor during the day, and at night party to some very big names of the world's music scene".

Thanks to Sinclair and his legions of loyal fans, the festival ended on a glowing, glorious note. "Next year will be even better," Vujovic vows.

While Kotor strives to accommodate the new without destroying the old, the city of Podgorica faces an altogether different challenge. It lies an hour inland, and is rarely viewed as a magnet for tourists.

Nor has it been much of a haven for the culturally inclined. Although there are plenty of dance clubs, visitors seeking to experience traditional Montenegrin music and culture had few good options in the Montenegrin capital.

A DJ spins at the Refresh Festival. [Marina Roganovic]

That changed when Skaline, the city's newest café bar, opened its doors this summer. You will never hear the beat of techno music as you descend the stairs. But if you're seeking more of a Balkan atmosphere, this is your place.

Set at the confluence of the Moraca and Ribnica rivers, where the Ottoman Turks built a fortress/castle in 1497, Skaline occupies a splendid piece of land that locals have long referred to as "get-together". Podgorica locals hope such establishments will spur greater interest in their city, which many visitors know mainly as the site of the international airport.

On August 23rd, its stage was graced by Ibrica Jusic, a Balkan music legend. Twenty-five years ago, Jusic performed in Montenegro for the first time at the historic site Skaline lies on. "There was no café bar here," Jusic recalls. "The smaller river [Ribnica] had a stage beside it and the place was full of people and magic."

Skaline "will definitely contribute to the cultural development of Podgorica", Jusic says. "There are young people involved, they are creators, and they have a lot of ideas. This will surely be a place for summertime get-togethers."

One of Skaline's owners, Srdjan Filipovic, is on a mission. "Podgorica is a new, beautiful town. We have new buildings and boulevards building every day. However, we must keep a part of the old Podgorica, some place that has a soul. The real cultural and historical values of Podgorica are down those stairs," he says.

Podgorica Tourism Organisation Director Ljiljana Scepanovic agrees. "Skaline is an important part of this city. It's the place that the children of Podgorica hear about from their parents, who used to go there regularly," she says. "It's one of the most precious jewels of the city, connecting the new Podgorica with the old town. It has historic buildings, bridges and forts. Skaline will be a joy for tourists to experience."